Pomade vs Clay: What's the Difference and Which Should You Choose?

The eternal question for every man starting his styling journey. Learn the real differences, which one suits your hair type, and why you might need both.

The Key Differences at a Glance

If you're looking for a quick answer, here's the essence:

Pomade: Provides shine, slick finish, and is ideal for classic hairstyles like Slick Back, Side Part, and Pompadour. Can be applied to damp or dry hair.

Clay: Provides matte finish, volume, and texture. Ideal for modern, natural looks like Textured Crop and Messy Hair. Should only be applied to dry hair.

Pro Tip Most barbers have both in their kit. Pomade for formal occasions and classic looks, clay for casual, everyday styling.

What Is Pomade and When Do You Need It

Pomade is the most traditional styling product with a history dating back to the 1920s. It has a waxy or creamy texture and provides control with shine.

Types of Pomade

There are two main categories:

Water-Based: Washes out easily with water, allows restyling throughout the day, and leaves no residue. The most popular choice for daily use.

Oil-Based: Traditional formula with maximum hold and intense shine. Requires 2-3 washes to remove, but gives an authentic vintage look.

Ideal For:

  • Slick Back and Pompadour
  • Side Part (classic parting)
  • Quiff with shine
  • Formal and professional looks
  • Thick, dense hair that needs control
Caution If you have fine hair (Type 1A), heavy oil-based pomades can make it look greasy and flat. Choose lightweight water-based or matte pomades instead.

Top Pomades - The Two Barbers Recommendations

What Is Clay and When Do You Need It

Hair clay is the modern styling product that has dominated in recent years. It contains natural clays like bentonite and kaolin that absorb natural oils and provide extreme texture with a matte finish.

How Clay Works

Unlike pomade which "glues" hair in place, clay creates texture and volume. The natural clays in its formula absorb oiliness, making it ideal for fine or oily hair that needs lift.

Ideal For:

  • Textured Crop and French Crop
  • Messy, "just rolled out of bed" look
  • Quiff with volume and texture
  • Fine hair that needs volume
  • Oily hair (absorbs oils)
Caution Clay should ONLY be applied to dry hair. If hair is damp, the clay becomes "muddy," loses its hold, and doesn't spread properly.

Top Clays - The Two Barbers Recommendations

Detailed Comparison Table

See the differences in detail:

Feature Pomade Clay
Finish Shine (low to high shine) Matte (no shine)
Hold Medium to Strong Medium to Very Strong
Volume Minimal Maximum
Texture Sleek, smooth Textured, natural
Application Damp or dry hair Dry hair only
Reworkability Excellent (water-based) Good
Washout Easy (water-based) Easy
Ideal For Thick, dense hair Fine, oily hair
Styles Slick Back, Pompadour, Side Part Textured Crop, Messy, Quiff

Which to Choose Based on Your Hair Type

The right choice depends on your hair type and condition:

Hair Type Pomade Clay Recommendation
Fine Caution Ideal Clay adds volume without weighing down
Medium Ideal Ideal Both work perfectly
Coarse Ideal Good Pomade provides better control
Oily Avoid Ideal Clay absorbs oils
Dry Ideal Caution Pomade adds moisture
Curly Good Avoid Clay can dry out curls
Golden Rule If you want a slick, shiny look = Pomade. If you want a natural, textured look with volume = Clay. If you're not sure, start with clay - it's more versatile for modern hairstyles.

Can I Combine Pomade and Clay?

Yes, and it's actually a technique many barbers use:

Layering Technique: Apply clay to the roots first for volume, then pomade to the ends for definition and control. This gives you the best of both worlds.

Mixing: Some barbers mix the two in their palm before application for a custom result.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which lasts longer, pomade or clay?
It depends on the formula. Generally, strong-hold pomades and clays have similar hold. However, clay tends to lose a bit of hold during the day, while water-based pomade can be reactivated with a little water.
Can I apply clay to wet hair?
No. Clay must be applied to 100% dry hair. If hair is damp, the clay won't spread properly, loses its matte finish, and doesn't provide the desired volume.
Why does pomade make my hair look greasy?
You're probably using an oil-based pomade or applying too much product. Try a water-based or matte pomade, start with less product (fingernail size) and add more if needed.
Which is better for beginners?
Clay is more forgiving for beginners. It's easier to achieve an acceptable result, even if you're not experienced in styling. Pomade requires a bit more technique for a perfect slick finish.
How much product should I use?
Start with a small amount, about the size of a fingernail or small coin. Warm it well in your palms and apply. You can always add more, but you can't remove it.

Final Comparison: Which Should You Get?

Get Pomade if:

  • You want a slick, shiny look
  • You style Slick Back, Pompadour, Side Part
  • You have thick or dry hair
  • You want to restyle throughout the day
  • You attend formal events

Get Clay if:

  • You want a natural, matte look
  • You style Textured Crop, Messy Hair
  • You have fine or oily hair
  • You want volume at the roots
  • You prefer casual, everyday styling

Starter Kit: One of Each

The ideal solution is to have both pomade and clay. This way you're covered for any occasion:

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Why Choose The Two Barbers

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Conclusion: There is no "better" product - there's the right product for your hair type and the look you want. Now that you know the differences, you can make the right choice.

Now go style like a pro!